One of the main characteristics of Canavese is the presence of a very high number of urban centers, most of which are very small, gathered around a church, a castle, or a tower: this could not be otherwise, considering what we have alrea- dy told you about its history and architectural heritage. Out of 130 municipalities, only a handful have more than 10,000 inhabitants!
The sense of belonging is very strong, and no one, over the years and even centuries, has given up their identity. These villages must be discovered slowly, appreciating their squares, their most suggestive streets, perhaps during traditional events that allow one to learn about both their intangible culture and their food and wine culture. We will tell you about some of them: it’s up to you to choose which intrigue you the most or seem the most fascinating.
Ivrea: is captivating with its Lungo Dora walk, its Roman origins (do you know what its inhabitants are called?), its industrial history, which has also shaped its urban plan- ning, the views of Via Arduino and the alleys leading to the castle, the Torta 900, and, of course it is famous for its Carnival, with Violetta, the Battle of the Oranges, and the horses, the main stars of this unique event and the Patronal Feast of San Savino.
Chivasso: wins hearts with its historic center, characteri- zed by medieval arcades, “secret” passages that open onto picturesque corners, the large square facing the cathe- dral, its “disproportionate” bell tower, and the octagonal tower, the historic café-patisserie that makes Nocciolini, and then, why not, also captivates with its “great river,” the Po, which with the Bricel River Park offers nature and outdoor activities.
And there’s more:
Agliè: evokes a leap back in time, to when the Savoy were at home and the scenic Fountain of the 4 Rivers set the scene for their royal picnics: just imagine being in their palace, swapping carriages for e-bikes, and discovering Santa Marta with its triangular bell tower, Villa Meleto, the residence of the poet Guido Gozzano, the sanctuary of the Tre Ciuché, and the bakeries producing the typical torcetti.
Torre Canavese: an open-air art gallery; a village of art, where its alleys and stairways breathe an atmosphere between the rural and the aristocratic, from the medieval tower-gate to the castle of the antiquarian Datrino, unfortunately now gone, a true protagonist in the artistic development of the entire village.
Castellamonte: one of the Italian Cities of Ceramics, where shop signs are works of art by ceramists; where the color of terracotta insists in the toponymy signs, in the unfinished Rotonda Antonelliana, in Arnaldo Pomodoro’s arch, in the friezes of houses and noble palaces, and in the “pitociu,” typical allegorical figures placed atop chimneys.
Cuorgnè and Pont Canavese: both share a medieval “main street” with ancient arcades and towers of various designs; from those of Pont, the view spans the entire town, the Cana- vese plain, and the Alpine chain, and the view becomes even more comprehensive going up to the Church of Santa Maria in Doblazio.
Borgofranco d’Ivrea: you will be captivated by the Balmetti, a village within a village! A small cluster of houses nestled against the rock walls of the “breathing mountain,” where streets and alleys have names that evoke joy, the euphoria that comes with a few glasses of wine: Via del Buonumore (Good Mood Street), Via della Coppa (Cup Street), Vico di Bacco (Bacchus Alley). Would you bet it’s a place where eating and drinking well in company is guaranteed?
And then a myriad of tiny clusters with red roofs, because almost every town had a kiln for baking bricks and tiles: Baro- ne, Vialfrè, San Martino, Bollengo, Oglianico, Pavone, Candia, Mazzè, Piverone. The roofs then, as one ascends towards the valleys, turn gray: they are lose, split stone: Carema, Settimo Vittone, Nomaglio, Corio, Andrate, Vistrorio, Traversella, In- gria, Ronco, Noasca, Locana, Frassinetto.
Every view is never trivial or predictable!
